Galette des rois

Puff pastry with an almond filling, what is not to like? The galette des rois is such a desert. The history of this dish is a bit convoluted but fascinating, and I hope I am stating it accurately. Its roots take place in western Gaul with the Carnut peoples. Once occupied by the Roman’s, they introduced the almond. The Carnutes, it is said, developed the first recipe for an almond cake, the first pithiviers, called the fondant. At the time the cake was a celebration of Saturnalia, the festival of the winter solstice. Both masters and slaves sat at table and ate together. A bean, either white or black, was placed into one of the dishes of that feast and whoever ended up with the bean was called the king of the feast.

In the 13^th century the galette des rois became a Christian religious custom, however without the puff pastry. The cake was a celebration of the Epiphany, the arrival of the three wise men, Melchior, Caspar and Balthazar, from three continents, Asia, Africa and Europe, to honor the baby Jesus. Whoever received the bean was still called the “King”. Although, originally, the galette des rois was filled with an almond filling, it was apparently not frangipani. The term derives from the Italian, frangere il pane or “breaking the bread”. Although the name is from the 11^th century, actual frangipani developed during the 16^th century. Marquis Muzio Frangipani, developed an almond cream used in the cake. A Pithivier cake filled with this almond cream originated in the 17^th century in the town of Pithivier in Loire Valley but did not include puff pastry. Puff pastry was not developed until the 18^th century and immortalized by  the Prince de Condé’s cook, Feuillet. The pastry spread very quickly throughout France and was used for the Pithivier cakes. A Pithivier cake is one that can be savory or sweet and uses puff pastry. Recipes can be found for potato, onions, chicken, vegetables, apricots, cherries and a multitude of other fillings both sweet and savory.

The galette des rois is a type of Pithivier cake, made with puff pastry and filled with frangipani and served at or during Epiphany.  Although location in France determined many of the recipes and names of dishes, the classic galette des rois is now enjoyed throughout France as are pithivier cakes generally.

As mentioned above the original roots of the cake had a bean or “feve” inserted somewhere in the cake. The bean has been replaced by a small plastic or china “feve”. The celebration is still very present and active in France. In many families the “king” leads a traditional dance after finding the “feve”. Note the picture for this post above, there is the cake, the crown and the “feve“.

As an interesting note, during the French Revolution the name was changed to gâteau de l’egalité, since both royalty and religion were eschewed at the time. Fortunately, the French have come to their senses and the name galette des rois returned.

Of further interest, a similar multicolored cake “Kings Cake” is made in New Orleans, undoubtedly originating from French roots. This is served at or around Epiphany and through carnivale, i.e., mardi gras. Although it seems to have unfortunately lost it’s religious heritage.

My cake didn’t come out anywhere near as good looking as a professional galette des rois. The technique of inscribing the surface of the cake top with a decorative pattern is a skill for which I need lots of work. But the taste was tremendous. I used a home made puff pastry, which probably did not puff up as large, but the taste was well worth the effort. I have included the recipe for both the puff pastry and frangipani below. A little creme Crème fraîche or whipped cream would have gone great, but by itself, along with a digestif, the desert is just wonderful.